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The gold mine
Although Corcovado has been a national park for nearly 40 years, it was only in February that the Costa Rican authorities insisted all visitors must be accompanied by a guide. (Above, that’s Ruth with...
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Come the revolution
The Museum of the Revolution sits in a plum location opposite the cathedral on the main square in León, Nicaragua’s second city. Designed in the 1930s as a telecommunications centre, the building was...
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The bit in the middle – Cycling through Honduras, El Salvador & Guatemala
When you fall ill with symptoms you don’t fully recognise, the worst thing you can do is search for those symptoms on the internet. Within five minutes, you’ll be seriously sick. Within ten, you’ll...
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Dancing in the dark – Mexico’s Day of the Dead
Just as we’re aware of the different lives through which we pass on the road, so we’ve become sensitised to the different attitudes to death we encounter. The recent histories of many of the countries...
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Say what?
On New Year’s Day in 1994, a group of masked, armed men entered San Cristóbal de las Casas, the capital of the southern Mexican state of Chiapas, and seized control of the city. Similar attacks...
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The Night of Radishes
During the 19th century, competition grew tough in the markets of Oaxaca. There were too many vegetables and not enough shoppers, and traders were forced to seek new ways to attract passing trade to...
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Feliz Navidad, una vez más
A year and a day ago, the Argentine family in whose posada we were staying invited us to join them for Christmas dinner. For us Englanders, there was a twist: the dinner was held not on Christmas Day,...
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In Oaxaca
It takes a stubborn cyclist to tour through Mexico without taking in the city of Oaxaca de Juárez. The alternative routes through the country to the north are apparently a bore, while bypassing the...
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It’s too late to stop now – A week in New Orleans
Crossing the border from Mexico into the US six weeks ago felt like the end of… something. Leaving the Spanish-speaking Americas didn’t signal the climax of our trip; at the time, we still had more...
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Song of the South
To a European visitor, no part of the US feels more foreign than the South. This is not a matter of landscape or geography but of attitude. The South feels different because, for reasons both...
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